Mdk Mb-17 W Schematic -

Posted by: The Circuit Bench | Guides & Debugging

The "W" version uses a mechanical 3PDT, but the input pull-down resistor (R2) is rated at 1M. This is too low. Change R2 to 2.2M to stop the DC pop without losing high end. Should you build a clone? Because the original MDK MB-17 W schematic is vaporware, many DIYers have asked if they should just build a clone. Be cautious. The magic of this unit is the mismatched JFET pair (2SK30A and 2SK117). If you try to build this on vero board with modern SMD components, you will lose the "sag" that makes the MB-17 W desirable. Final Verdict Until an original scan surfaces from a retired service tech in Osaka, our community-sourced schematic trace is the best map you will get. If you own an original MDK MB-17 W, treat it gently. It is a weird, beautiful dinosaur of solid-state design. Mdk Mb-17 W Schematic

If you hear a low-frequency "put-put-put" (1-2 Hz) when the effect is engaged, look at the ground plane around the opto-isolator. The schematic shows a missing star ground. Solution: Solder a 10-ohm resistor between the input jack ground and the PCB ground. Posted by: The Circuit Bench | Guides &

The MB-17 W uses two 100uF filter caps that dry out. If the unit passes signal but sounds like a dying gnat, check the negative voltage rail. Replace C15 and C16 (100uF/16V) immediately. Should you build a clone

If you’ve landed on this page, chances are you have a dusty, non-functioning on your workbench, or you are a vintage gear hunter trying to verify the provenance of a "white label" unit. The MDK MB-17 W is one of those elusive late-70s/early-80s solid-state units that sits right between "pro audio" and "boutique experimental."